07.05.2002 | Þórir Kristinsson

Fyrir þá sem eiga CR og CRF ´02 og ´01 módel, eru hér nokkrar hugmyndir um hvað betur má fara

Make your CR better ( af netinu)

With any newly released motorcycle, there are bound to
be a few glitches in production. Known for its
refinement and attention to detail, there are a few minor
errors with the CRF450. Below is a list of quick fixes to
some minute problems, that may grow as this project
evolves.

- The latest tip - It is recommended to remove the metal
bracket that houses the fuel line between the tank and
the carb. You should wrap it with heat wrap. The metal
can heat up the fuel line and cause vapor lock when the
engine gets warm.

1. Airbox Seal

The 2002 CRFs and CRs have an improper seal
between the airboot and the airbox itself. We installed
an aftermarket fix for this problem, which will be
published for the month of March.

2. O-Ring chain

If you intend to run an o-ring chain, the chain may rub
the engine cases slightly. To avoid this, run a .060
thousandths valve spring shim behind the countershaft
sprocket. The 1″ id shims fit perfect. Another alternative
is to install a 14 tooth countershaft sprocket. This may
be an extreme fix, but also alleviates the chain buffer
problem as shown in number 3 (possibly). It also a
good idea to add the .060 shim when using the 14
tooth countershaft, just to be on the safe side. Make
note that the valve spring shim is a home-made fix.
This part can be found at most machine shops, or a
select few auto parts stores.

3. Chain Buffer Pre-Mature Wear

It has been known and stated by many that the chain
buffer is wearing out in as few as 2 rides. There are a
few possible fixes for this:
1. Install a 14 tooth countershaft sprocket. This may
solve the problem of an o-ring chain rubbing on the
engine cases also.
2. Make sure your race sag is set to the suggested
92-100mm.
3. Be sure to keep the chain tension to the suggested
1.25 to 1.5 inches of play. This may seem
unconventional, but the new Honda’s are designed to
work best with this amount of chain slack.

4. Oil Capacity Bulletin

The below bulletin explains how the oil system
functions, and how much oil needs to be placed in both
sides of the motor (transmission and engine)

-Transmission oil level
“In addition to having separate engine oil and
transmission oil cavities, the 2002 CRF450R uses new
transmission oil distribution/leveling technology. In
order to reduce overall drag, the CRF450R designers
incorporated slightly lower oil level in the clutch cavity
than in the gearbox cavity. This is a performance
enhancing design, but it can create some confusion
when changing and checking the transmission oil level.

There are three small oil catch basins on the clutch
side of the right crankcase. These catch basins transfer
oil that is slung from the primary gears into the gearbox
cavity. As the engine runs and the oil level in the
gearbox cavity rises, oil begins to spill back over into
the clutch cavity through a transfer hold. The oil
continues this circulation process, much like a pump,
transferring back and forth between the two cavities.

The overall transmission oil capacity is 670cc at
disassembly and 590cc at draining. Because oil is
added to the transmission throuth the filler cap on the
right crankcase cover (clutch cover), you will only be
able to add about 400cc before oil begins to run out of
the check hold. Once the engine is started and the
pumping process begins, oil will transfer in to the
gearbox cavity, but the overall level will now be too low.

The Owner’s manual and Service Manual both state to
start the engine, let it run for three minutes, shut it off,
and let it sit for three minutes before checking and
adding oil, but if you are unfamiliar with this technology
an under-fill condition will result. the easiest and sure
way to set the proper transmission oil level is to use a
graduated measuring cup (ratio-rite) and add 590cc to
the transmission after draining.”

5. Check tightness of coolant hoses

We have heard of a few instances where the coolant
hoses slip off under operation. Simply check them over
to be sure the clamps are tightened appropriately.

6. Carburetor

The carb may be loose at the clamp between the
engine and the boot. Again, just be sure to tighten the
clamps.

7. Countershaft Sprocket Guard

It is customary to remove the plastic case/countershaft
sprocket guard. We suggest running a Case Saver
from Fastway Performance. It may be of interest to mud
riders to remove the countershaft sprocket guard.
Unbolt the guard, press out the brass bushings and
reinstall the case saver behind the bushings without
the plastic guard. This will prevent any major mud
accumulation at the countershaft.

8. Kouba Air/Fuel Screw

This adjusting screw makes fine tuning the idle circuits
easy. http://www.koubalink.com/fuelscrew.html

9. Oil Change

This is a general tip that applies to all motorcycles:
When changing the oil, once you think all the oil is
drained, kick the bike over with the kill switch activated,
and the drain plug removed. Beware of oil splattering
beyond the oil drain pan (we suggest attaching an
empty milk jug to the bike, in order to catch the excess
oil.)

10. Spinning Inserts which hold Engine Guards

In many cases, the threaded inserts which hold the
front plastic engine guards in place are loose in the
frame; as they were never seated to begin with. Below
is an example of how to fix the problem (ed note: we did
not have this problem with our CRF):
1. Use a long bolt, with a nut and washer on it, thread
the bolt all the way in so that it hits the other side of the
frame. This puts enough pressure on the nut-rivet so
that it doesn’t continue to spin. Next, tighten the nut
down on the washer. The pressure re-seats the
nut-rivet.